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Main \ Mountain tours \ Rock climbing in the mountains of Uzbekistan

Rock climbing in the mountains of Uzbekistan

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The mountains of Uzbekistan belong to the mountain systems of the Western Tien Shan and Southern Tien Shan (Gissar-Alay, which includes the Turkestan, Zaravshan, Gissar, Karategin, Alai ranges).

The vast mountainous area known as the Western Tien Shan and located at the junction of three neighboring states - Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, is one of the unique corners of the planet. The mountains of the Western Tien Shan have a rich fauna and flora, a large proportion of which are nowhere else on the planet are not found endemic species and communities.

The Western Tien Shan combines expressive mountainous terrain, picturesque water bodies, wild nut and coniferous forests, middle mountain meadows and steppe meadows, multicolor subalpine tall grasses, and alpine meadows. Deep canyons and gentle picturesque gorges with multi-level waterfalls, plateau-like surfaces and oddly shaped impregnable rocks, the purest springs and full-flowing rivers, alpine lakes adjacent to snow-capped peaks are of exceptional aesthetic significance. The aesthetic importance of landscapes is enhanced by many species of fauna and flora. Among them are the fabulous beauty of the Greig and Kaufman tulips, the Himalayan snowcock, the paradise flycatcher. Here is the Ugam-Chatkal State Natural National Park. It was created by the proposal of scientists of the Academy of Sciences of Uzbekistan at the end of the last century on an area of ​​574 thousand hectares and practically covered all the south-western spurs of the Western Tien Shan - Koksuy, Ugam, Maydantal, Pskem and Chatkal ridges. The range of the park heights is from 900 to 4000 meters above sea level with mid-mountain, forest and alpine belts. The core of the park was the Chatkal State Biosphere Reserve formed over half a century ago with a specially protected natural area regime. More than 1,100 species of plants grow here and more than 240 vertebrates live, research is conducted, background monitoring is conducted, and various air, water and soil pollutants are monitored.

Rocky Land in Yangiabad

The “capital” of the rocky edge is the town of Yangiabad, fifteen kilometers northeast of Angren, at the confluence of the Cattasai and Dukentsay, escaping from the slopes and spurs of the Chatkal range. In 1977, a trade union climbing workshop was held in Yangiabad to develop new rocks for all-union competitions. Since then, on the Yangiabad rocks, large-scale climbing competitions have been held more than once, in particular, the famous “Cities Match” of the USSR, where, for example, in 1982, 52 cities took part.

Yangiabad is located at an altitude of about 1,300 meters above sea level. An asphalt road leads from the city along Cattasaya to the Yangiabad tourist center (1500 meters above sea level); about four more kilometers. The camp site itself is small in size: several buildings for guests, of which currently only one is fully equipped, like a modern hotel with all amenities. The remaining residential buildings are under reconstruction. The central alley leads from the camp site to a dirt road, which gradually decreases to the bridge over Kattasay. Without reaching the bridge, to the left of the road there are low cliffs - coils (the coil here is a plate with a small number of small leads). Across the bridge, go to the orthographic left bank of the Cattassaya. The trail leads another couple of kilometers along the left bank, bending around the side streams, and passing by the archovniki. And on the opposite slope, all over, sheer cliffs form powerful walls about one hundred meters high. The relief of the rocks is very diverse.

Another place popular among rock climbers is called Pigeon Gorge. It is located less than an hour's walk from the Yangiabad camp site. Already from afar one can see the Pigeon Falls, on the sides of which there are two powerful walls, about 30 meters each. In the gorge, there are still quite a few inhabited rocks. There are bolt climbing tracks with lower insurance. The waterfall in the gorge does not dry up even at the peak of hot weather.

Other opportunities for mountaineering and climbing in the mountains of Uzbekistan

In spring, summer and autumn, there are many different opportunities for recreation in the mountains of Uzbekistan. As soon as the massive melting of snow ends, at the end of April, climbers, climbers and mountain tourists leave for the routes. At this time, the famous mountaineering is held annually in Chimgan. Chimgan is well known as a “cradle” for many, many athletes. The variety of routes of various difficulty categories (from 1B to 4B) attracts young climbers and mature athletes to Chimgan, because here you can make all the necessary ascents up to the second level of mountaineering, and most of the ascents (except for participant 5A) for 1 discharge.

Climbing along some climbing routes (for example: 1B along the Western ridge, “Hare ears”, “Iron”, Zhukov Route, etc.) are possible within one day. Of course, it is better to arrive in advance for acclimatization. Other routes take time to approach. Some prefer to go through three peaks of Chimgan-Kichkina (Chilanzarchouki) - Hunting peak (Aukashka) along traverse 3A.

The mountain Big Chimgan, although relatively low, is rocky. For beginners there are no easy routes. Even route 1B provides for the passage of a gendarme, bordered around by impressive rocky faults. Thus, all registered routes leading to the summit of Big Chimgan pass through rocky areas of varying difficulty.

Rock climbers have long chosen rocks for training and competitions in Chimgan. There are many interesting rocks for bouldering, lasagna with upper and lower insurance, draytutinga and so on.

Well-known to fans of climbing and rocks in the area of ​​Khodzhikent, where you can easily get from Tashkent by train. Here, first of all, we should mention the rocks located along the mountain river Bulaksu.

The route that we offer you covers two areas Hodzhikent and Chimgan. You can try your hand at all the most interesting cliffs located here, as well as get acquainted with the nature of this magnificent mountain region.

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Come to us by adress:
Tashkent, Sharaf Rashidov street, 16